If your case is a small or unusual design, consult the manual for precise instructions. Set the PC on its side, with the motherboard facing up.
You should be able to look down at the motherboard with all its various ports and connections. The CPU cooler is the large gadget with a big piece of metal the heat sink and one or more fans attached to it. For our Intel stock cooler, this is relatively simple: we just turn the thumbscrews at all four corners, and then lift it off. More complex water-cooled systems might also require advanced techniques. Before you lift the cooler away, check the power cable attached to the fan.
Gently pull it out, and you can then remove the entire cooler. The gelatinous stuff on top of it is the thermal paste that allows heat to efficiently transfer to the cooler.
On our Intel LGA socket, we release the lever and lift the plate. At this point the only thing holding the CPU in is gravity. Carefully grasp it with your finger and lift it out. Set it aside. Now take a look at the CPU socket on the motherboard. You may need to install a backplate on the opposite side of the motherboard. Now remove the new CPU from its packaging. Insert it into the open CPU socket on the motherboard. It should slide or sit in place easily, without you putting any pressure on it.
Pull it out and try again. If not, then squeeze about a pea-sized drop of thermal paste onto the center of the CPU from the paste tube. It spreads out evenly when you lock the cooler into place.
Now re-install the cooler. Again, the method for doing so will vary based on the cooler design. Replace the access panel and screw it in on the back of the frame. Now return it to its normal spot and power it on for a test. This is the more complex operation. Also note that replacing your motherboard, especially with a different model, generally requires you to re-install your operating system and restore it.
Really, you should consider this more building a new computer and reusing old parts than simply upgrading your computer. A handy trick is to keep your phone handy and take lots of pictures: snap a photo or two with each cable and component you remove.
You can refer to them later if you get confused. First remove the power rail from the top or side of the GPU. Then remove the screw holding it in place on the back of the case. Now look for a plastic tab on the PCI-Express slot on the motherboard. Repeat this process for any other PCI-E expansion cards you might have.
Intel and AMD stock coolers can be removed simply, but larger, more elaborate air coolers and liquid coolers might need you to access the opposite side of the motherboard to remove a backing plate. This is the long one with 20 or 24 pins. You can leave it hanging loosely.
Do the same for the 4 or 8 pin power cable near the CPU socket. Now unplug your storage and disc drives. For most recent machines, these are SATA cables. Just pull them out and leave them dangling.
Next, go for the case connections and fans. These can be particularly tricky—take note of their positions , and take a photo if you have your phone handy. Any case fans that are plugged directly into the motherboard should now be unplugged as well—they generally go into four-pin plugs around the edges. Nowadays, motherboards are more alike than they are different. You should not expect to see major differences in performance, power consumption, or overclocking between similarly priced motherboards from different vendors.
Picking the motherboard with the right color scheme for your PC is always going to be a subjective decision. But you need to make sure that the motherboard you pick has an adequate number of USB, ethernet, and whatever other ports you expect to use. You also need to choose a motherboard with an expansion slot layout that can accommodate any graphics or other cards you may want to install.
With all that out of way, the final issue to contend with is price. A great if slightly risky way to save money on a new motherboard is to buy the open-box returned version of that product.
A smart trick is to take a picture here, so you have a record of everything that needs to be plugged in before you start disconnecting them. The big items like graphics cards and Wi-Fi cards can come out of your motherboard first. Or perhaps you want a computer which supports fast transfers via Thunderbolt 3, in which case you'll need a motherboard with Thunderbolt 3 connectivity.
Finally, if you're looking to squeeze a bit more performance from your system, or you're just looking to learn, you might want to try overclocking your CPU. To do this, you'll need not only an overclockable CPU, but also a motherboard which supports overclocking.
To facilitate an upgrade, you'll need to match up your new hardware to your existing hardware -- or you can go buy a set of all new equipment.
The most crucial bit is that the motherboard and CPU must match. You can use online sites like PC Part Picker, which is an invaluable resource for first-time PC builders , to check whether your parts are compatible with each other. If it's not, you'll need to upgrade. Unfortunately, there isn't a workaround for this one, but you can write it off as a learning experience. The RAM's frequencies and voltage must also match up to the motherboard's desired range.
To learn more about how to avoid bottlenecks, see our guide to how to pick the right components for building your next PC. Want to cut back on how much time you spend staring at screens? Replacing Android with a dumbphone is a good place to start. Here's what it's like.
Using a new motherboard that is incompatible with your old hardware, especially the CPU, will result in startup malfunctions such as the renowned blue screen of death BSOD. We can divide motherboard replacement into two parts: removal and installation. Keep yourself grounded by touching the metal edge of the computer case from time to time.
You can also do this efficiently by holding any metal object attached rigidly into the foundation of your house. A metal tap, a window grille, or a metal handrail will do.
Avoid generating static electricity that can lead to electrostatic discharge. Standing, sitting, or moving around on fabric material such as wool and polyester causes friction to generate static electricity. So work with your feet on wood, stone, or a tiled surface.
If you want to remember where every connection goes, mark the tip of each cable. Before replacing a motherboard, gather all your tools and prepare an unobstructed, well-lit, and stable worktop. If you have access to a grounding wrist band and a grounding mat, it is advisable to use them as well. With grounding options, you are protecting all electronic components from ESD. Motherboard removal involves severing all connections with other components and removing all obstructions which are simply in the way.
Ensure that you disconnect your computer, or any connected peripheral devices, from any power source. Some system fans, water pumps, reservoir tanks, radiators, and radiator hoses may be blocking access to the motherboard. Start by removing them first to clear up the computer case interior. That said, water cooling system removal encompasses a large topic for another discussion.
Disconnect the power connectors and data cables from the hard drives and optical drives. Remove all of the expansion cards attached to the expansion slots. Expansion cards notch onto the rear of the computer case with screws. Remove these screws and set them aside in a rigid container for reattachment later. Unlatch the respective clips from the cards and pull them out of their slots. Avoid touching the gold conductors on the cards because the oils on your hands will insulate and reduce their conductivity.
One of the easiest components to remove from the motherboard is the memory module. Pressing on the tabs will release the modules, but it could also launch them out of the slot. With the cooling systems, storage devices, and expansion cards removed, the computer case interior should provide enough moving space for unseating the CPU. If you retained the CPU fan in Step 2, unplug its power connectors and unscrew it from the motherboard.
Unseat the CPU from its socket by lifting the locking arm. The locking arm is typically a lever that spans the side of the CPU.
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