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Thread starter topchippie Start date Jun 22, Total: members: 26, guests: Status Not open for further replies. I'm not a plasterer but I can skim good areas to a reasonable standard and have a bedroom that needs the walls sorting. I don't want to float so it's either overskim what is there or knock it all off and board the walls then skim them.
In an effort to avoid the mess of going back to brick over skimming would be my first choice but the the old plaster is a bit hollow sounding and cracked in places so what is the best easiest way to tackle this and hopefully avoid any old cracks coming thru the new skim. Saw some lads at work using a green gritty primer sealer on old plaster, would this be likely to be more successful than plain old PVA.
Thanks for any helpful replies Chaps. That does not make sense to me. If you think about the types of claims that an insurance company would want to minimize such as water damage, mold, etc. Sorry, but that is what we were told. The price quoted for plaster was half again what the quote was if we replasted it with drywall. This is our fist home, we have only had to get renter's insurance before and they don't ever ask what kind of walls you have. All I know is what we were told while getting quotes.
I have two properties, both with plaster walls, and the issue has never arisen with my insurance company, either. And, I've never in the decades I have had one or more homes with plaster walls needed to file any claims for them. I have, however, done an "H" of a lot of drywall replacements, on fixemups, where people have run fists, boots, and God knows what through the thin drywall. I don't disbelieve you, because frankly, it's up to the insurer what they do or don't find acceptable You implied you have enquired with other companies for quotes.
Did they also have penalties for plaster? My kids and I have different insurers, and I know when one of them just bought a new home, theirs made them jump through hoops on certain items.
The only thing mine did on an investment house I bought was to ask me to install a handrail on a short set of steps. I would have anyway.
They were the last one we contacted and my husband said "WHY is it so high? We were a little shocked too, I didn't think something like that would matter. Seeing as how we were unfamiliar with the process we figured maybe we just misjudged what was "bad" for insurance and what wasn't. Maybe the person givingus the quote was crazy, who knows, stranger things have happened.
I don't quite get it. I mean, I suppose plaster would suffer more from water damage in a catastrophe, but then you could replace it with drywall if the catastrophe occurs.
Does drywall suffer least with fire? Or protect from fire more than plaster? I'd doubt that. Does it have to do with your replacement insurance coverage choice? I could see that if you have plaster now, and you specify replacement value, then they'd have to payout for replacing plaster and maybe they think that's more cost at payout.
No he didn't, My husband didn't have it on speaker phone but I was sitting right there and the man was a loud talker so I could hear him speaking. We didn't specify that we would want plaster replacement or anything like that in the event offiling a claim for any reason. Maybe he just assumed. My husband is calling the insurer that the PO was insured with to get his quote and we are going to ask him why they would have quoted higher.
It costs more to get a 'same material' policy since plaster is far more expensive to repair and replace. Another 'gotcha' occurs with foundations following major damage. You may be required to bring them up to present code. The insurance for rebuilding old homes with 'same materials' costs more since the expenses of repair are higher. Yes, it surely would be. Can you see a stately old Victorian being rebuilt with same materials? Yes sir, the fireplace surround is art tile and the mantles are solid Mahogany.
Why no, it's triple course construction. To be very truthful, our agent told us that many insurers simply drop policies on vintage homes after they've priced them out of sight.
He termed them white elephant houses. Ours would limit severely the amount they'd spend to replace our house, and it would not anywhere near be with same materials. It was just understood when we got our policy. I don't think there are craftsmen around who would or could build a house to duplicate one this old.
OK, that makes sense that if your insurance specifies "replace with same materials" that the insurance would be higher if the current house has "lath plaster" walls, and they'd be expected to replace the lath plaster walls. That would definitely be more expensive. I mean, I wouldn't go through my house tearing out the lath plaster walls and replacing them with blueboard simply to lower my annual insurance rates.
They are out there. Expect to pay for airline tickets and hotels for the duration of the job to get them. My plasterer died a few years ago 87 years old. He showed me plenty of tricks in his later years. He would come and sit at the site and give directions on everything from mixing up the plaster to applying it. I can do run in place plaster molding, but when he still did the work it was delightful to watch.
He needed help with the horse the sliding form used to hold the metal plaster pattern the entire 20 years I new him, but was delightful to work with. Even molding patterns are still available. I have done restoration work in Federalist town houses in Alexandria, VA. Smoot Lumber made some of the original pieces, and is still in business. It is expensive to have large moldings recreated, but it can be done.
Well, it was probably putting it too strongly. I did find a wonderful wet plasterer several years back to work on my Mama's plaster ceilings. He showed up in snowy painter's coveralls, and I suspect he was in his eighth decade. He brought several other gentlemen with him, also quite mature. I had to laugh, as my mother was afraid for any of them to climb a ladder.
But, they were excellent and the price quite modest. I'm sure they did it for the love of their craft, and were a well kept secret in this vicinity. Let's put it this way. Old, old houses are pretty common here, and extraordinarily unappreciated. They are razed, and cobbled and turned into duplexes by absentee landlords. There hasn't been much of a demand for specialists to work on antique homes, using antique methods.
It's hard to even find one anymore who can recognise the old plastering we have, or how our stucco differs from the new latex ones, or how to nail slate. I have found them, but instead of getting more common, the craftsmen are going extinct as they age. As for the materials, OMG, that's what would kill me. Our foundation is stone. The last listing I have ever seen for a stone cutter, was on the census.
The house beams are old growth logs. I'd have to win a lottery to ever build a house like this old one, and it's modest and humble. Just constructed like a bunker. Absolutely not use drywall mud for plaster repair. We repaired all the cracks in our Colonial Revival and it looks like it did in We used "Plaster Patch" from Home Depot. It is a lot of work because you have to cut a V-cut all along the crack and then mix a small amount of the plaster patch at a time and apply it to the crack.
Then it gets real hot and chemically bonds to the old plaster. It took a long time to do the ceiling and walls of our 6, sq. We LOVE our plaster walls!!!!!
And no insurance agent has ever mention it cost more to insure. We have our home insured with Chub. They specialize in older homes. After taking off multiple layers of wallpaper and paint in every room, including all the ceilings, in our Craftsman, the plaster walls needed to be repaired. The only place we put in drywall was the wall that had to be removed entirely to put in a new main stack.
This was 20 years ago and there aren't any cracks so far. Setting compound the powder in the bags is actually a plaster type product and works very well. I routinely use Durabond for plaster repair.
It is as hard as the original plaster and sanding messes up the surface. Easysand can be used if you are not so sure about your ability to work the surface smooth. It will sand, but is not as hard as plaster though it is harder than premix mud. Setting compounds harden by chemical reaction like plaster and will not dissolve if they get wet after setting. Sorry for the hijack If so does it stick as well as it does to unpainted plaster and would I have to remove the paint for a skim coat to be put on?
The guy we had in for some plaster work does metal lath three coat, and can do crown if we pay him big time, LOL said he would not recommend putting a skim coat of plaster over painted plaster. He said he could put in a bonding agent, but it doesn't work very well. The bonding agent is painted on the wall, not mixed into the plaster! And, used in that way, it works very well indeed. The bonding agent is painted on the surface and allowed to become slightly tacky, than the new plaster is applied.
Here is a link that might be useful: Euco Weld. Oh, ok maybe I misunderstood when he explained it to me. Thanks I'll ask him about this and see what he thinks as he is the only true plasterer in my rural area. So once this stuff becomes tacky, regular smooth coat plaster can just be applied normally? I don't think you can get a nice finish coat directly on top of the bonding agent. At least I had a difficult time, although perhaps a pro would know how.
For me, everything slid around too much while you were trying to work it smooth. Hi Builder I'm thinking of employing has told me his plasterers don't like skimming over old plaster. I've got to strip wallpaper from some walls, and I want to just have a painted wall. I expect that when I've stripped the paper, I'm not going to have a decent enough surface to paint. Cheers Dave. WaveyDave , 19 Mar AndyBill , 19 Mar Sorry to hijack your question, but does the 2 coats of PVA also apply to plastering over a very battered painted wall?
It is well past the point of just filling and sanding, the previous owners must have moved shelves about a dozen times! Fred Flinstone or Diyisfree will probably be able to help you more than me. The only thing is, I've been told the cost or replastering is likely to be times the cost of just getting it skimmed Thanks for the advice both.
It's all to do with the condition of the undercoat plaster. If you poke it with a screwdriver and it seems pretty firm - then PVA and skim. If it just turns to powder when you poke it - then it has to come off.
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